![]() ![]() Squirt a bit of this lube into the hole.Īlso spray WD-40 around the base of the lug nut. Insert the WD-40 tube into the hole and wrap the tube at the nut surface with a shop (or paper) towel to catch any back spray. You now have access to a reservoir for soaking the nut and stud with WD-40 or equivalent. Drill through again to the top of the stud. Hold the drill motor firmly because the bit may want to suddenly grab in the hole and rotate the drill. Install the 7/64″ bit in the drill motor and repeat the above drilling procedure. Repeat this process until the bit breaks through to the top of the stud. Wipe away chips and reapply oil to the bit and hole. Be careful to not bend the drill bit this will break it pretty quickly.įrequently stop drilling especially if the oil begins to smoke. Use a center punch and hammer to dimple the center of the lug nut.īegin drilling with the smaller drill bit. Three-in-One oil or equivalent will be adequate for this job. Buy two of each since these small drills are very easy to break.ĭrilling will be benefitted by the use of a lubricant. To do this you will need high quality drill bits such as cobalt alloy steel drills in 5/64″ and 7/64″ diameters. If the nut has a closed head, drilling that head can help get the oil into the threads. If the fastener is seized or its head is stripped, proceed to Step 2.įirst, the nut and stud must be soaked with a penetrating oil. Note: This step covers the rusted nut or bolt. Floor jack or 3-ft section of pipe (to slide over breaker bar).1/2″ drive 6-pt socket (of the correct lug nut size or slightly smaller).Drilling lubricant (ie: Three-in-One oil).5/64″ and 7/64″ drill bits (cobalt bits work best).Power drill (cordless or corded both work).Penetrating Oil (like WD-40 or Kano Aerokroil). ![]() These steps will keep the wheels from rotating as you attempt to loosen the fasteners. Make sure the transmission is set to Park or it’s in gear and firmly set the emergency brake. Whether the lug nut is stripped, rounded-off, or seized due to either over tightening or corrosion, the loosening process will typically be the same except as noted below.īegin with your car on the ground not on jack stands or lifted up in any way. Related: 5 Ways to Remove a Stubborn Bolt How to Remove a Lug Nut That Won’t Come Off In this condition, the fastener also may be seized and just won’t turn. This is common on older cars and cars that have been left unattended and uncovered in outdoor weather for many months. ![]() The lug nuts and studs or bolts are severely rusted. Proper use of a torque wrench ensures that each wheel fastener is not under or over tightened. Note: Prior to purchasing new tires, confirm that the tire shop you've selected always uses a torque wrench when installing the wheels. It cannot be removed using the lug wrench that’s packed with your spare tire. Read Also: What’s the Purpose of Wheel Spikes? SeizedĪ zealous mechanic armed with an impact wrench may have over tightened one of the lug nuts on your car. In either case the fastener cannot be gripped such that it can be removed. Or maybe it’s seized and your attempts to remove it with a lug wrench or socket have rounded it off. In this case, use of an impact wrench or wrong size socket while installing a lug nut or bolt has rounded off (stripped) the hex-shape of the fastener. The lug nut or bolt may be: Stripped or Rounded Off The following are three common causes for a wheel lug nut refusing to come off. Related: Lug Nut Sizes and Types (w/ Charts for Most Car Manufacturers) Reasons Lug Nuts Won’t Come Off This will be noted in the appropriate sections. Some of the techniques discussed here can work for lug bolts as well. However, several brands of European cars use lug bolts which screw into the wheel hub. We’re going to focus on problems with conventional lug nuts screwed on to wheel studs.
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